Sister Song’s Fish Soup (宋嫂鱼羹) is one of Hangzhou’s most storied dishes — a silky, golden soup of delicate fish shreds, egg ribbons, bamboo shoots, and mushrooms in a gently thickened broth. Legend says a woman named Song created it during the Southern Song Dynasty, and it has been beloved for over 800 years. Here is the classic Hangzhou method.
Sister Song’s fish soup (宋嫂鱼羹) is a classic Hangzhou soup made from shredded fish, egg ribbons, bamboo shoots, and mushrooms in a silky, gently thickened broth flavored with Shaoxing wine, ginger, and vinegar. It dates back to the Southern Song Dynasty.
The legend is one of the most famous in Chinese food. 宋五嫂 — “Sister Song the Fifth” — was a woman from Kaifeng who fled south when the Song court moved to Hangzhou in the 12th century, and set up a small food stall by the West Lake. One day, so the story goes, the emperor passed by, tasted her fish soup, and was so taken with it that he summoned her to the palace. The dish became famous overnight, and its name has carried her ever since. It remains one of the signature dishes of Hangzhou cuisine, the refined tradition of 西湖 (West Lake) cooking that prizes delicacy, freshness, and restraint above all.
This recipe comes from a Hangzhou chef who taught me the essential technique: the fish must be poached gently, then shredded by hand while warm, and the soup thickened only lightly — like velvet, not paste. The balance of vinegar and white pepper at the end is what wakes up the whole bowl.
Shred by Hand, Thicken Lightly
Two techniques define the texture. First, the fish: firm white fish is poached gently in seasoned water, then — while still warm — pulled apart by hand into fine shreds. A knife crushes the fibers and leaves the pieces too uniform; hands follow the natural grain and produce the soft, irregular strands that give the soup its name (羹, a thick soup of shredded ingredients). Second, the thickening: a light cornstarch slurry, added slowly, until the broth coats a spoon like thin silk. Overthicken and the delicacy disappears — 羹 should flow, not stand.
The Finishing Balance
- Egg ribbons — beaten egg drizzled into the simmering soup in a thin stream, the same technique as Egg Drop Soup 蛋花汤
- Black vinegar, added at the very end — a teaspoon or two; it should brighten, not sour
- White pepper — the traditional Chinese soup seasoning, for gentle warmth
- Shaoxing wine and ginger — used both to poach the fish and to season the broth
- A few drops of sesame oil off the heat — for aroma
- Bamboo shoots and shiitake — for texture and depth; both cut into fine slivers
Ingredients and Where to Find Them
- Firm white fish — basa, sole, or sea bass fillets; freshwater bass is traditional
- Shaoxing wine — Shaoxing wine for poaching and seasoning
- Chinkiang black vinegar — Chinkiang vinegar for the finishing note
Also needed: eggs, bamboo shoots, dried shiitake, ginger, scallions, cornstarch, light soy sauce, white pepper, sesame oil, and chicken stock. Some versions add ham slivers or a few peas for color.
How to Make It
- Poach 300g (10.5 oz) white fish fillets in water with ginger and Shaoxing wine for 5 minutes until just cooked
- Lift out and, while warm, shred by hand into fine strands; reserve the poaching liquid
- Soak 4 dried shiitake and sliver them with 60g (2 oz) bamboo shoots
- Simmer 800ml chicken stock with the poaching liquid, the shiitake, and the bamboo shoots for 10 minutes
- Add the fish shreds and season with 1 tablespoon light soy, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
- Thicken with a cornstarch slurry, stirring gently, until the soup coats a spoon lightly
- Drizzle in 2 beaten eggs in a thin stream, stir once, then finish with 1 teaspoon black vinegar and a few drops of sesame oil; scatter with scallions and serve
Variations
- With ham — a few slivers of Chinese cured ham add a savory, salty accent; traditional in banquet versions
- With crab — a luxurious variation substituting crab meat for half the fish
- With peas — a handful of green peas added at the end for color
- With tofu — silken tofu slivers in place of some fish for a lighter soup
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the story behind 宋嫂鱼羹?
Legend holds that a woman from Kaifeng known as 宋五嫂 fled south to Hangzhou when the Song court relocated in the 12th century and sold fish soup by West Lake. The emperor tasted it and praised it, making the dish famous. It has been a Hangzhou classic for over 800 years.
What kind of fish should I use?
A firm white fish that holds its shape when shredded — freshwater bass is traditional, and sea bass, sole, or basa all work well. Avoid oily or very delicate fish, which disintegrate into the broth.
What is the vinegar for?
Just a touch of black vinegar at the end adds a gentle sour note that brightens the soup — a hallmark of the dish. It should complement, not dominate.
Why is my soup not silky?
The starch was added too fast or the soup boiled after thickening. Whisk the slurry in slowly over low heat, and keep the soup at a bare simmer afterward — a rolling boil breaks the texture and can make it gluey.
More Chinese Soups
Enjoying delicate Chinese soups? Try my Hot and Sour Soup 酸辣汤, the simple Egg Drop Soup 蛋花汤, or the legendary Patriotic Soup 护国菜.
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